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The motor mounts can be seen on the combustor. The mounts bolt right to the frame.
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The engine is starting to look good!
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I needed an exhaust nozzle/tail pipe for the engine. The purpose for the nozzle is to accelerate the exhaust gas to provide more thrust. I decided to use 2-1/2 EMT to make the nozzle. I cut the pipe so I could taper the end and figured that a 30% decrease in size would not create too much back pressure but would have a lot of thrust. The ID of the pipe is 68 mm and the tapered end is 48 mm with an overall length of 225 mm.
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The exhaust nozzle has a pyrometer sensor fitting welded into the side of the exhaust. The pyrometer will show me the exhaust gas temperature real time so I don’t risk a melt down.
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I had thought of ways to reduce my oil temperature and had remembered that the expanding LP gas (the fuel I am using) through a heat exchanger could help cool the oil. The system would probably work fine without the exchanger but I wanted to take advantage of the situation. The oil tank that I purchased was a after market radiator coolant catch tank for automotive racing use. I modified the tank by adding a 5/8” hose barb in the top for my turbo drain. The aluminum tank is perfect for wrapping copper line around as to make a heat exchanger. As the LP gas is routed through the coils, it expands and absorbs heat from the oil in the tank. I am not sure how well it will work but I am optimistic.
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I wrapped the copper coils with sheet aluminum to give the unit a professional appearance
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I had one more system to hammer out, the ignition system. I had chosen to use an automotive ignition coil to ignite the combustor. I needed to figure out a way to run the coil as it needed a driver to operate. I purchased a set of points and condenser for a 65’ Chevy truck. I used a 12V DC motor from a tape recorder to drive a cam that opens and closes the ignition points. This system works awesome as I could draw almost a 25 mm spark from the coil. When I hooked it up to the spark plug in the combustor you could hear the spark inside loud and clear. See the newer solid state coil driver circuit!!!
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I now had the task of mounting my components inside the frame while making sure they would not interfere with each others operation. I had to make room for my oil pump, oil filter, oil cooler, oil tank/heat exchanger, fuel solenoid, pressure sensor, ignition system, gauges, power panel and battery.
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I welded cross members where I needed to support things. This is the main advantage of cube style framework.
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I needed a place for a battery so I left room at the top for a battery tray.
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My steel fabricated parts were ready for final paint. I purchased some high temp (1200 deg.) paint for the combustor and tailpipe. I used automotive spray paint for the frame. This part of the project was exciting for me as the moment of truth was soon at hand. I just have to bolt on the parts, plumb the system and work out the control panel.
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