Hello everyone :0) I am now going to tackle the governor weights. These weights will control the speed of the Red Wing engine by intermittently holding open the exhaust valve through the latch out bar. The engine’s ability to keep a steady RPM will directly depend on how well these parts are machined.
I decided to start out by trimming the molding flash off of the weights with my belt sander and some needle files.
I finished off the job with a fine wire wheel that is mounted on my bench grinder (not shown). Note: Care must be taken when using a wire wheel as to not get the parts caught up in the wheel. Certain shapes can catch the wires and possibly ruin the part or worse yet, throw the part at Mach speed through your shop!!! Please be careful...
The next step is to lay out the holes for the weight studs. I positioned the spindle at center x .125” from the outer edge of the “tab” as seen below.
A quick spotting of the hole with a #1 center drill...
And now an 1/8” drill...
A 1/4” end mill was used to spot face the weight as seen below...
I repositioned the weight and drilled a 1/16” hole on the other side of the weight for the governor spring.
The next step is to drill out the pivot hole in the arm of the weight. I mounted the arm over a hole in a 1-2-3 block and centered the spindle on the pivot point as seen below.
I now drilled a #31 hole in the pivot point (not shown) and then followed it with an 1/8” chucking reamer.
The second governor weight was machined at this time and both weights were polished in the vibratory tumbler to brighten them up (not shown).
And now to test out the parts. I mounted up the weights with my newly completed pins along with the shift collar as seen below.
I trimmed up the “ball” ends of the arms with a needle file so that they have a perfect fit into the shift collar. Excessive play or too tight of a fit will prevent the engine from running smoothly...
I could now install the governor springs and studs to see how they fit...
The governor linkage is now complete and I can move on to the timing assembly.
The Red Wing kit comes with a set of factory cut gears that need to be machined to fit the engine. The smaller of the two (24 tooth) needs to be bored out to 1/2” to fit on the crankshaft.
I mounted up the small gear in the lathe and widened the bore out with a 15/32” drill bit.
I now used a boring bar to widen out the hole to .500”.
The timing gear needs to be broached to fit the keyway so I used my arbor press to drive the 1/8” key seat broach through the gear.
I used ample cutting oil to help the process which was a little harder than cutting the flywheels.
The next step is to drill out the hole for the set screw. I centered up the spindle over the keyway slot with the wiggler tool as seen below...
The hole was spotted with a #2 center drill (not shown) and then drilled with a #29 bit...
And now for the 8-32 tap...
I trimmed a piece of 1/8” key stock (included in the materials kit) into the shape of a half-moon so that it will sit into the crankshaft as needed.
I installed the new timing gear on the crankshaft with a 8-32 set screw. The new 1/8” key fit beautifully inside the gear (not shown).
The next project to work on is the timing gear shaft. This piece is made from a 7/16” CRS hex stock that is included in the materials kit. I applied some layout fluid to the end of the hex stock and marked the latch out bar pivot’s location with a center punch at .157” from the end of the hex (not shown).
The next step is to cut out the channel that will hold the latch out bar. I mounted the hex stock on the milling table and installed a 3/32” thick slitting saw on the spindle. I then centered the saw (up/down) on the end of the hex using the “cut and measure” method I used earlier on the governor bracket (not shown).
I zeroed out the depth indicator on center and then moved the saw down .088” for the first cut. The saw was set to cut at a “depth” of .345” from the end of the hex stock. After making the first pass I moved the saw up .088” from the zero reference and made the top cut. Note: I moved the table’s “Y” axis across the saw to make these cuts against the cutting direction of the saw.
Once finished with the cutting I had a .270” wide slot for the latch out bar.
The next step is to drill out the latch out bar’s pin hole (where I center punched earlier). I centered up the spindle with the wiggler as seen below...
And now for the 3/32” pin hole.
I moved the shaft over to the lathe and laid out a line at 1.970” from the end. I then started to turn down the shaft up to this line.
I finished up the cut at a diameter of .312”.
I now made a new mark at .815” from the end of the shaft which will be the end of the threads for the timing gear retainer nut.
I used a .058” wide HSS parting tool to cut a thread relief at a depth of .021” (.270” diameter) on the right side of the marking.
I set up the lathe’s gear box to accommodate a 24 TPI thread and then mounted up the threading tool to make the 5/16-24 threads on the end.
I made several passes with light cuts as to prevent the shaft from bending away from the tool bit.
I could now test the threads with a 5/16-24 nut (provided in the hardware kit).
I cut the shaft free from the hex stock with my bandsaw and the trimmed the head to a thickness of .155”. A slight bevel was also added to each side of the hex on the shaft...
It’s always a good sign if the part looks like the drawing ;0)
Lastly I installed the shaft into the engine’s frame for a fit check.
I am really picking up momentum with the Red Wing build and couldn't be more happy with the progress. So far so good :0) The real question is will this thing run or not? We will have to wait and see ;0) Please join me again when I get back to the Red Wing Engine Project.
